I’m particular when it comes to some foods but I don’t feel right labeling myself a “Food snob”. Like, for example, I still eat at The Olive Garden even though it’s not considered “Real Italian food” and I eat at Taco Bell even though it’s not considered “Fit for human consumption”. You get the point. I was raised in an Italian/American household so I, like most Italians, have my own ideas as to what constitutes “Home style Italian food”. There has to be pasta, wine, and at least one older gentlemen at the table who has removed his shirt prior to the meal. As much as I hold my own family traditions near and dear to my heart, I understand that not everyone grew up in a scene from Tony Manero’s home life in “Saturday Night Fever”.
In the last few years, a series of high end restaurants have sprung up around downtown San Diego and Italian places loom large on that roster, so I needed help picking one. I found that BiCE Ristorante (Pronounced BEE-CHAY, not like Season 4 American Idol finalist/reason Carrie Underwood has been inflicted upon all of us, Bo Bice) appeared on nearly every top 10 list so I was excited to add it to the list and revisit my old stomping grounds (I lived in San Diego’s Gaslamp Quarter from 1998-2002 before it became the awful tourist-studded douche-moat that surrounds castle Petco Park). Nestled away on the corner of Island & 4th, BiCE’s location was delightfully free of the things most locals hate about downtown San Diego. I had a small but dedicated group of close friends willing to brave this challenge with me for the cheese bar science.
Amy-Vegetarian Belle, Author, Event Planner
David-Technical writer, singer, robot super villain
Kelsey-Project manager, Advanced level foodie, Has been known to drop it like it’s hot after a few cocktails
We were greeted by our server Alessandro who spoke with such a thick authentically Italian accent that I am certain his Grandfather sprang to fame by serving Lady and the Tramp dinner in an alley in 1955. He was lovely. Actually, the whole staff was really nice. Kelsey started her meal with a Trio of Tartar: fresh ahi tuna and avocado – salmon with chives – sea bass flavored with citrus. They were all good but the real stand out for me was the tuna. light, refreshing and perfectly done.
Amy’s goal from the moment I added this place to the list was to hit the cheese bar and hit it hard. BICE offers and incredible selection of cheeses that must be seen to be believed. It can be a bit intimidating but Alessandro put down his accordion long enough to be of great help with Amy’s cheeses. The in-house cheese monger even came to our table to describe every cheese, recommend wine pairing and even told us which order to eat them like some sort of “cheese expert” or some shit… The cheese consisted of Lagrein (A semi soft, wine-washed rind cow’s milk cheese), Sottocenere al Tartufo (Truffle cheese with ashy rind) & Sapori del Piave (Rich, complex, Northern Italian cheese). If the entire dinner consisted just of this cheese, I would have been perfectly fine. Seriously good cheese. Plans are already in the works to go back and continue working our way through the cheese menu alone.
The real stand out of this meal was the main course dishes. You guys. I can’t even. Readers of this blog already know that I make it a point with every meal to try everyone’s dish and decide on a favorite. Sometimes it’s what I got, sometimes it’s someone else’s. This was my first honest-to-Mama-Celeste four-way dead heat. Every single one of these dishes was a home run. I ordered the Ravioli di Manzo alla Massaia con Salsa di Funghi Profumati al MarsalaSOLD AMERICAN! (Gavel bang) It’s a homemade Ravioli Stuffed with Braised Beef, Veal and Spinach in a Mushroom and Marsala Wine Sauce. At first I thought the plates and portions were a bit small for the price but one taste of this and I understood. Rich as hell, creamy and delicious. With so much going on in the dish it would seem like some flavors might get trampled in the mix but each note of every ingredient came forward. It was like a tightly rehearsed band tearing through my favorite song. Crazy good.
Kelsey ordered Tortelloni di Ricotta e Spinaci con colata di Gorgonzola, which is extremely hard to pronounce. Spinach and Ricotta Tortelloni in a delicate Gorgonzola sauce & crunchy Walnut. It was incredible. The perfect blend of salty, savory and a touch of sweet flavors. I’ve never seen Kelsey tear through a plate of food that fast and we’ve been to crayfish bakes together.

It’s almost too pretty to eat! I’m just kidding, put the God damn plate down and back away from the table…
David ordered the special of the day, potato gnocchi with king Crab in a creamy Alfredo sauce with cherry tomatoes. Another home run; rich, creamy, perfectly prepared fresh gnocchi and fantastic crab meat. It was so good I had almost forgotten that David nearly ruined the entire meal by spilling his Mojito all over the table. Almost.

If I knew this could be the result of Sebatian’s murder in “The Little Mermaid”, I would’ve rooted for the French chef the whole time.
Amy also ordered a vegetarian dish but it’s important to note that she was hardly low on options. In fact, Alessandro (While gently kissing up her arm) said they could easily adjust nearly any main course item to be vegetarian. It gets better: They also offered a wide variety of whole wheat pasta and even gluten free substitutions, which is fantastic! Amy had the Tortino di Parmigiana di Melanzane Condita al Pesto Leggero which is properly pronounced only by Italy natives and insufferable show-offs. It’s Baked Eggplant Parmigiana with Pesto Drizzle and it’s amazing. Again the “Keep it simple” approach that BiCE seems to employ works perfectly in this zesty dish with eggplant perfectly fried and somehow not soggy (Sorcery at it’s purest).

Alessandro was also able to suggest a perfect red wine with dinner which all of us were far too far off in food-induced love to remember.
Seriously amazing meal. We had dessert and while I was not as blown away by dessert as I was by everything that preceded it, it was all still very good. Amy had a Pineapple Tart with maple ice cream, which was very tangy and good. I ordered BiCE’s take on Tiramisu, which was muted in it’s sweetness and not so aggressive but it was very smooth, and creamy. A good ending to the meal. My favorite dessert (as well as the table’s favorite) was what Kelsey ordered; Pistachio Lava Cake. Made to order, it comes with a scoop of ice cream and a piece of white chocolate Pocky on top.

I was the only person at the table brave enough to try the candied octopus looking thing on the right. It was candied hibiscus. I am courage.
I have to say I never thought green gooey cake would delight me so much, especially considering I’m not a big pistachio fan, but by this point in the meal I was prepared to follow BiCE to the ends of the Earth. This was the best place I’ve been to so far. Fully lived up to the hype. Also, though a more high end place, not as expensive as I expected. I’ve ran up bigger tabs with two people at Applebee’s (See? not a snob!!!)
Further reading: http://www.bicesandiego.com


