Fun fact about yours truly: I am dreadfully under travelled.  Don’t get me wrong, I know how lucky I am to have left the U.S. at any point at all (as some folks never get to) but the first and only passport I’ve ever owned is less than 3 years old and has only one stamp in it.  I’m working on that.  All this to say, my experience with Balniese food is….Non-existent.  

Located in the San Diego City of Oceanside, Dija Mara mixes Southeastern Asian flavors with Western flair and Japanese cooking techniques to offer a unique spin on Balinese cuisine, helmed by critically acclaimed chef Jason Ambacher.   Dija Mara’s sister restaurant, Hoxton Manor, was one of the first places suggested to me to cover this season but it unfortunately closed before I could make it there.  Dija Mara is still going strong in North County  and I was eager to see what all the commotion was about.  

Joining me for this culinary maiden voyage to Indonesia by way of North County was my own band of merry travelers:

Amy J-Chief science officer, Michigan Football loyalist, a common floozy

Chris-Attorney, lifelong food snob, loves sandwiches.  Like, a lot.

Harry-The I.T. guy, equal parts Type A and goofy as all get out, He probably knows how to fix that.

Shannan-Medical examiner, pumpkin enthusiast, drives the coolest car you’ve ever seen

Suzanne-My Italian soul sista, can throw down in the kitchen, the cultured one who pronounces everything correctly.

I’m just gonna go ahead and call it.  This is best place I’ve been so far.

This is gonna be a bit of a stretch but I need you to just buckle up and go with me here.  I want to talk for a moment about every straight person’s favorite musical, “Grease”.  Specifically the 1978 film version of “Grease” (That clarification is strictly for the theatre girls, gays and theys because only we know other incarnations exist).  First off, respects paid: Restful peace to the memory of my beautiful birthday twin, Olivia Newton-John.  I said for years that Grease is a terrible musical but recently, I’ve amended my feelings on it.  Grease is actually a great musical with a terrible moral.  Remember ladies, change everything about yourself so your outside appearance lines up comfortably with the lies our male lead was singing in Act one about what a whore you are.  Protect his fragile ego and reputation at all costs.  A problematic, misogynistic and woefully dated film with a soundtrack loaded with bangers (See also, “Purple Rain”-Also, soon to be a Broadway musical and no, I don’t want to talk about it.)  My favorite number in the film is “Born To Hand Jive”.  Set during the school dance competition, Sha-na-na delivers a rousing, energized, hi-octane version of the song while Randal Kleiser’s direction keeps the cameras moving nearly non-stop in perfect lockstep with Patricia Birch’s phenomenal choreography.  I’m not kidding.  This number is genius in it’s staging.  It’s controlled chaos in a beautiful symphony of dance, character work and placement.  It’s a big, painstakingly detailed show showstopper that rushes past you in an instant, taking the secret that it took two grueling weeks to film straight to it’s grave.  You need to watch it a dozen times to see everything you missed the time before.  There’s action in the foreground, in the background.  Characters come in an out of the scene at break-neck speed.   It’s frenetic and all over the place but it comes together so tightly.   All the more impressive staging and choreo-wise was Patricia’s work as director in the brilliantly-title sequel, “Grease 2”.  Again, not kidding.  Terrible movie, FIRST RATE staging and choreography.  But “Born To Hand Jive” works so well because there’s so much going on and it all fits together so well.  I could teach a whole filmmaking class on these 5 minutes and 41 seconds.

The ASMR-type satisfaction in filmmaking that I get from watching “Born To Hand Jive” is exactly how I felt eating the food at Dija Mara.  Layered,  painstakingly detailed and beautifully thought out.  I always vowed I would never be the type of food critic that called food “clean”.  Like, how stupid is that wording?  But I GET IT.  I’ve had sloppy, muddled flavor profiles in dishes before.  Too much going on.  Dija Mara is the complete opposite of that.  My friends and I just about ran the whole menu and shared every plate on the table.  Let’s get into it.

First up was a plate of grilled Roti bread, which is a soft flatbread made from stoneground whole wheat flour.  Unlike it’s delicious cousin, Naan, Roti is unleavened.  Warm, soft with a delicate chew.  This was love at first bite for ya boy.  I could’ve smashed a phone book-sized pile of it.  Served alongside a Lamb Jus Curry and a Vegetable Rendang Curry  for dipping.  Both were delicious but I seem to be the only one at the table who actually preferred the lamb curry.  It had a savory flavor and a nice heat on the finish.  The Rendang curry was earthy and smokey with a heavy lean on the cumin.  Harry called the dish a sense memory trigger for some of the best Thai and Indian food he’s had.  

The first dish I ordered was the Mie Goreng (Spicy wok-fried noodles, lamb shoulder and sprouts).  They were unfortunately out of lamb that night and instead substituted chicken thigh.  Our server warned me that the spice level starts around a 7.  I warned her not to threaten me with a good time.  The noodles were al dente, tender with a beautiful rich flavor and they were not playin’ with that spice level.  Any more would’ve been too much but damn it was good.  I couldn’t stop eating it.  Shannan aptly called it a “Flavor punch”.   Chris noted that the dish may not be authentic, skirting a line between Thai and Indian but he agreed it was delicious.

Dija Mara offers several types of meat skewers and we had a few.  First up was the Big Eye Tuna (with Fermented Chili Aioli, curry leaves and crumbs).  I learned quickly that Dija Mara knows how to pair flavors and textures to create an amazing bite in such a small piece of fish.  It was buttery with just a kiss of astringent citrus.  Suzanne praised the beautiful sear on it.  Amy loved the fermented chili note and the crunch.  Again, would smash a whole platter of it.  Up next were the Chicken Thigh Skewers (With peanut sauce, green onion and cucumber)  Suzanne advises building a bite with the green onion and cucumber to take the chicken to the next level.  This was good advice.  She also noted their unconventional chunkier approach to a classic peanut sauce.  While many at the table found these to be less remarkable than the other dishes, Chris enjoyed the great char on the meat.  The final skewer we had was the Pork Belly (With Peanut Aioli and Shallot Matah).  My first bite gave SMOKE and I was about it.  Harry, not so much, he likened it to gun powder.  I loved the juiciness of the pork with a slight sweet note.  I’m obsessed with the layers of flavor they bring to every dish.  It feels like storytelling.      

What Harry most definitely WAS feeling was the Sea Bream Ceviche (With Makrut Lime, Hijau, Herb Oil and Coconut Cream served with a side of cassava chips).  He called it unlike any ceviche he’d ever had.  He loved how the fish was accented by the strong Thai flavors.  He said he could eat only this and be happy.  Amazing.  I’m not a big ceviche guy myself but it certainly was tasty and reminded me of how much I like cassava chips.  Suzanne enjoyed the bright citrus and how well it pairs with the coconut.  Amy enjoyed how the cooler flavor of the ceviche was a nice offset top some of the spicier dishes we were served.  Shannan loved how vibrant and beautiful a presentation it is.  She’s right.  It’s a gorgeous plate of food.

Up next was Beef tartare (Curry Leaf Aoili, Fermented Kohlrabi and Opal Basil spread on Prager Toast).  I low-key love beef tartare, all thanks to my late ex-Boyfriend Dylan who took me to Ruth’s Chris for our anniversary years ago and insisted I try it for the first time.  Dija Mara does a fabulous job with it.  It’s fresh, unctuous and delicious without being too heavy.  Chris found the dish to be less exciting compared to the rest of the menu while Suzanne found the dish to be a bit oversalted and over dressed to the point that had her asking “Where’s the Beef?” (RIP, Clara Peller.  I don’t mean to keep bringing up so many dead people in this review)

One of the non-meaty dishes at the table was the Chinese Yu Choy (Similar to Bok Choy) Steamed green served in a savory broth with grated coconut.  Crisp and well cooked.  Amy praised the heavy Sumatran spices in the dish.  They were a hit.  Chris said he’d pair this with a side of rice to make a great center-of-the-plate meal.   

We also had the Ayam Penyet (Dija Mara’s take on fried chicken, served with coconut rice and house sambal)  Again, I could eat a whole platter of this.  The chicken was juicy and tender with a great crunch.  Chris also loved the chicken but pointed out the spiciness of the sambal (Indonesian chili paste) called for more rice.  Shannan found the heat to be a bit too much.  Suzanne went a bit further, saying the sambal hit the back of her throat like a rocket!  Hey Alexa, play “Bring it All To Me” by 702 featuring JC Chasez….

Another undisputed highlight for me was Beef Shortrib Rendang (with Indo Ferments topped with a picked egg and coconut rice).  There was so much going on in this sauce and I loved it.  Possibly the best short rib I’ve ever had.  Tender and rich with a beautiful fresh note from the mint.  Of course I didn’t eat the pickled egg.  Are you new here?   Shannan also loved the moist, tender flavor of the short rib and how well it paired with the rice.  Harry said the beef was so tender, it would fall apart with an angry look.  We’re not so different, this short rib and I…

Up next was the Tofu Rendang (Tofu and Tempeh with pickles, cucumber and peanut sauce, served alongside coconut rice).  I also low-key love tofu.  People speak ill of it but it honestly just amplifies the flavor of whatever it’s served with, which can be awesome when paired with something delicious.  It basically jumps in your mouth and says “YEAH, THAT!”  win/win, really.  The tofu was toothsome and richly flavored with great crispy shallots.  The dish was also a big hit with Amy who loved the taste and texture of the tofu and wondered how they managed to get a whole peanut sauce without peanuts, which she is allergic to.  This is a good time to pause and shout out our server, who was extra attentive to all of our dietary needs and allergies at the table.  She was on top of it with who was not to touch certain dishes.  

So, I have this hang up about food.  Try to temper your shocked reaction.  I clearly have no problem eating anything that used to have a face but I would just rather that face not still be attached to it while I’m eating it.  Knowing this, Chris was delighted to order the Whole Fried Market Fish (Tamarind glaze, urap salad and herbs).  Before long, the fried carcass of Mister Limpet arrived looking like he decided to make a sharp left turn into an underwater high voltage fence.  Ick factor aside, whole fish is stressful for me because it’s difficult to eat.  I don’t want bones.  For me the meat yield just isn’t worth the stress or the work.  That having been said, it was a very flaky, buttery white fish that paired nicely with the crisp exterior and the sweet tamarind sauce.  And yes, I made Chris cut me a piece.    While he enjoyed watching me deal with this monstrosity, Chris himself found the dish to be an overall disappointment.  

In addition to great food, Dija Mara also offers a full menu of wine-infused cocktails.  Suzanne ordered the hilariously named Pandan-y Dropper (Pandan-infused agave wine with pineapple, coconut and lime).  It was very green and pretty but I tasted it and the tannins in the agave made it taste like acid reflux to me.  I also blame myself for this because it looked like a grasshopper and I really wanted it to be that because I am 3 housewives from the late 60’s in a trench coat.   Suzanne said it tasted like something you make in college using odds and ends left over from the last frat party.  Damn.  Chris described it as “A Hell of a ride through a series of flavors” and is still convinced there’s lemongrass in there somewhere.  An ingredient that strikes me a touch bougie for a college bar but whatevs.

Shannan got the Cardinal Sin (Dija’s spiced Agave win with honey, lemon, bitters and egg whites).  She found it yummy and not too sweet with a light cinnamon note on the finish.  She also praised the light and frothy egg whites.  She’d definitely order it again.  Love that for her.  Shannan’s second cocktail of the evening was the Lychee Camo (Chamomile-infused agave wine with pineapple, coconut and lime) Much like the Pandan-y dropper, a beautiful presentation but this one delivered on what it’s appearance promised.  Shannan says it was flavorful, sweet and refreshing.  

A little insight into my process when I do these reviews: I have a tendency to glance at the menu before the visit but I don’t decide what I want or make any plans ahead of time.  I literally order what looks good to me in that moment.  When I sample other people’s dishes (My right as the aforementioned “Boy” in “The Boy Who Ate San Diego”).  I almost always ask what’s in it, because if there’s something I don’t like, I skip it or have a very small bite of it.  Dija Mara won my complete trust so early on in this meal that I didn’t ask a single question.  I was ready to try it all.  The exceptions being the more obvious “no-fly list” items like pickled eggs or a the fried-solid remains of a horrified expression forever captured on this fish’s face.  I loved nearly everything I tried.

It’s a smaller place, better suited for couples or a small polycule that the kids seem to be into nowadays.  The interior is modern, hip and the staff is top tier.  The food is, as previously mentioned, the best I’ve had this season so far.

Go.  Now.  Hand jive your way up to Oceanside and get you some.        

Further reading: http://www.dijamara.com

Watch the Episode on YouTube: https://youtu.be/EHErxkROric